Cultural Assimilation at the Frühlingsfest

I keep saying that I will post at least once a week, but I never seem to keep that promise. Oh well, sometimes life doesn't always goes as planned. Any hoo, I've been making myself comfortable in my new home of Bavaria and finding all sorts of hijinks to keep myself entertained.

This past week, I had the great pleasure of attending a maibaum fest as well as the Frühlingsfest on May Day (for those of you in the US, that is Labor Day for everyone else in the world). 

A maibaum is the german translation for maypole, and yes, there is a party dedicated to its raising on the first day of May. I had no idea to expect, yet happily accepted the invitation to hang out with cool Germans and begin my drinking at 11 in the morning. The square at Hans Mielich Platz was transformed into a beer garden, complete with a dance floor, and people in the neighborhood gathered to drink and dance. 

Even though we were in the heart of Munich, it felt like we were in a small village. You could tell the dances the men and women performed were things they have practiced since childhood. 

And the clothes were beautiful. Richly embroidered suspenders, hand tooled leather belts, and skirt covers in mirrored flowers; the outfits made me swoon. 

  

Not to be outshined, I put my best foot forward and modeled my lovely new dirndl. After an exhaustive search, I found this lovely gem at the second hand store across the street from KVR, the immigration office in Munich. And I only spent a total of 50 euros for the entire outfit, which is a much better deal than the 100 euros most places charge for things that are much lower quality. 

The highlight of the day was the performance by the schuhplattler dancers. The schuhplattler is also called slap dancing and can be best described at Bavaria's answer to the step shows that are popular with Black fraternities. 

I am a total geek and squealed when I saw them take the floor. I've been watching YouTube videos of schuhplattlers for months and was so excited to finally see one in person.

After several dances, many compliments on my outfit, and too much beer, my friend and I made our way towards the Frühlingsfest, which is spring's version of Oktoberfest, and takes place at the same location at Theresienwiese. 

Having never been to the actual Oktoberfest and only managed a bastardized version of it in several countries, I was mildly disappointed when we arrived and saw a giant amusement park. Complete with rides and carnival games, I felt like I was at Coney Island. But never one to give up the chance for a new adventure, my friend and I made our way to to the beer tent and continued our love affair with liter glasses. 

Shortly after grabbing a table, we were quickly joined by a two German guys and then two Finnish ones. The Finns were really cool AND sociable, so I took their picture as evidence to present to my Finnish friend who swears her people have no social skills. 

One of our German neighbors, who was only mildly attractive when he was sober, turned into a royal ass once he was intoxicated. He foolishly tried to pull up my dress while I was dancing, and I screamed, "I'll fucking slit your throat if you touch me again you son of a bitch!" My new Finnish friends made it known that they would happily deal with him should he decide to touch me again. 

So all in all, I had a great time, but after seeing what the festival is in the spring, I think I will be avoiding it in the fall. There are far too many beer halls in the city to choose from than to subject yourself to the commercialism and drunken debauchery that is on display at the Oktoberfest. But if I do decide to go, I already have an outfit picked out. 

Starkbierfest: Good beer, better friends

This past weekend, I had the immense pleasure of attending the Starkbierfest at Paulaner am Nockherberg. My lovely friend was visiting from Madrid and I wanted to show her what Munich was all about, namely mass beers and singing. Plus, one of the guys from my writing group wanted to go and was looking for people to join him. So we all agreed to  go and see what this magical elixir was all about.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with starkbier, it was originally created by monks for them to drink during the fast of Lent. The idea was to create something that served as liquid bread since drinks were permissible while one was fasting. The result is a flavorful brew with a higher alcohol content of about 7%, a nice little side effect.

Photo: lisley.biz

Most of the famous breweries in Munich have their own version of starkbeir, but Paulaner's is the most famous and has the biggest parties, so that was where we were going. 

Entrance to the festival this year was 2 euros. If you went Thursday through Saturday, the entrance total was 11.80 euros and included a voucher for one liter (mass) of beer. So if you plan on going next year, budget accordingly. Also, reservations are highly encouraged if you actually want to get a seat inside. 

When my friends and I first arrived, the sun was bright and shining, so we decided to sit in the adjacent beer garden. Not wanting to get too drunk too early, I decided to get some food from the near-by stalls. Now, I do not speak ANY German. I know, I know, bad American. But so far, I've been able to get by with my rudimentary skills of Danish (the languages are surprisingly similar) and miming. There were no menus nor prices listed at the stall and after asking the man behind the counter the prices of several different items, I some how managed to get a plate of a half chicken and a dumpling for 19 freaking euros! I thought I misheard the woman at the register and was going to take my food back for something more affordable. But then she started yelling at me in angry German, so I paid for my meal and mourned the loss of drinking money. So again, be prepared if you decide to check it out, the is not for the tightwad.

Rather than sulk about the culinary rip off, my friends and I enjoyed the day and made arrangements to meet another friend who happened to have reservations inside. Score! 

Must protect the precious beer!

I would have been happy sitting outside all day, but the weather and crowd were both a bit subdued. I was hoping for a German brass band and dancing on the tables. Instead, the beer garden was filled with quiet conversation and civilized drinking. And Despicable Me balloons. 

So once we finished our first round, we headed indoors and was greeted with Bavarian hospitality.

Yes! This is exactly what I was looking for. And after doing a international tour of Oktoberfest, I knew most of the drinking songs and was able to sing along. In the end, my friends and I managed to drink 4 liters of beer, each, over 10 hours. It was great. Until I woke up the next day and looked at my account =)

Spring in Bloom

It's amazing how much a city can change when the sun finally comes out. When I lived in Copenhagen, I thought there were hardly any people there. And then Spring came and the city was overflowing with tourists and residents alike. I guess they had been hibernating. 

When I came to Munich, I expected a similar transformation, but a little less dramatic. Unlike Copenhagen, people still go out to bars, play winter sports, and generally live their lives even in the wintery months. However, the last few days of sunshine and warm weather has brought even more people out of hiding and I'm so excited to see what the city has in store. 

No sun + low temps = no people

Last week when the temperatures dropped down again, I was struck by how empty the city became, literally overnight. As I walked down Ludwigstrasse, a street that is normally buzzing with energy, it felt like I was in the city all by myself. But then the sun came out the next day and everything was back to to normal

High temp - clouds = people!

What I've really enjoyed, in addition to the warm weather, is the buskers that have started appearing around the city. In New York, they're everywhere, including the trains, and the random street music is something that I start to miss even now and again. So imagine my surprise when I came across a band with a full sized piano in the middle of the street on my way to Marienplatz. 

And when I went to hang out in the English Garden, the rhythmic sounds of a drum circle beckoned me to find them. I tried to ignore them and stay focused on my book and beer, but their hold on me was too powerful. Before I knew it, I was packing up my belongings and going in search of their source. 

When I found the group of performers, and started dancing, I was reminded of an old Dave Chappelle skit were he discusses the power of electric guitars and drums on white and black people. I proved his theory right. 

After having my fill of good beats, I decided to look for the legendary surfers of the Eisbach. I saw them once during my first trip to Munich. But it was the smaller area where the beginners practice. I wanted to see where the pros go to show off. 

I noticed a few people walking with surf boards before, but I wasn't sure if they were going to the area or coming from it. I was feeling daring that day and decided to follow my instincts and go where they were going. And I was well rewarded for my courage. I came across the pro area and there were about seven people in slick wetsuits riding the waves on their short boards. Even though the day was warm, the water was rather chilly (I know this because one of the surfers flicked me when he was coming out of the river) and I had to admire their commitment. Here's their exact location if you want to check them out.

And the summer hasn't even begun. Hell, it's not even April yet and all these cool things are happening. I haven't even mentioned Starkbierfest, the festival celebrating strong beer. And I've started to see some advertisements for the Munich Film Festival and numerous musical events that will be coming to the city. I'm absolutely giddy about the new experiences Munich has to offer. Let's see what else I can find.

Fasching: Party with zee Germans

This past week saw the end of the carnival season around the world. Instead of going to Brazil, the Carribean, or any another place where scantily clad woman roam the streets with ornate headdresses, I got the chance to experience my first German Carnival. But since I'm in Bavaria and the Bavarians think themselves cooler than regular Germans, they call it Fasching. 

Some research showed that the Carnival season technically starts in early January, However the last three days of the season are the biggest, named Fasching Sunday, Rose Monday, and Shrove Tuesday. 

Traditionally, the time is marked with elaborate costume balls and, as one blogger described it, is closer in style to the masked celebrations of Venice than the drunken debauchery of Cologne.

Last year's Carnival Ball at the Bayerischen National Museum. Photo: muenchen.de

As Bavarians are normally very reserved, I wasn't sure what to expect. My roommate, normally a great source of info about everything Munich, only said that it was crazy, the people were annoying, and she purposely avoids most clubs and bars until the whole ordeal is over. Not a very enthusiastic endorsement, at all. 

On Fashing Sunday, I made my way to Marienplatz where the square had been transformed into an open-air party. Live performances of traditional German party music supplied the entertainment while beer stands and food stalls provided the refreshment. During a break in between sets, I heard drums off in the distance. Mesmerized by the hypnotic rhythm, I made my way through the crowd and discovered Munich's Latin drum band, Bateria-Z. 

They were fantastic and I wish my phone took better video so I could show you. The group had fun with the crowd and did different tricks with their instruments. The energy was infectious and everyone around me were moving their hips to the beat. 

Tuesday was the culmination of Carnival and it was marked by the "Dance of the Market Women" at the Virtual Market. Not wanting to enjoy the festivities alone, I checked out my trusty Toytown Germany expat site and saw a forum posting asking if people wanted to get together for the event. 

Five of us arranged to meet in Marianplatz at 10:30 and head over to the Virtual Market. My roommate warned me that Tuesday would be crazy and if I hoped to see anything, I should be out the house by 9. I thought she was exaggerating, but by 10, both the Virtual Market and Marienplatz was in full swing. People were dressed up and many had already cracked open their first beer of the day.

10:15 and people are pouring in from the U-Bahn.

By the time we reached the Virtual Market, the place was packed! Being a vertically-challenged person, it was impossible to see any of the performances. But I did get the chance to see the mayor. Thankfully, my companions were as unenthused as I was, so we left and went for a breakfast of German champions, weisswurst and pretzels, at the legendary Hofbräuhaus. 

One of the oldest beer halls in Munich, Hofbräuhaus became known for it's delicious weissbier (wheat beer). The beer is so good, it supposedly saved Munich from the Swedish king during the 30 Years War in 1632. King Gustavus Adolphus promised not to burn the town down in exchange for some hostages and 600,000 barrels of Hofbräuhaus' beer. Pretty fair trade I'd say.

As if the food and beer weren't good enough, a brass band started playing on the stairs behind us. I was in Bavarian heaven.

After breakfast, which rolled into lunch, and then early dinner, we went back to Virtual Market for the last of the performances, and then a nearby bar for a nightcap. In total, I spent more than 12 hours dancing, drinking, and being entertained by the party revelers around me. I had no idea the Bavarians had it in them.  

Looking for a quiet place

If you're like me, getting work done at your house can be extremely difficult. Sitting in one's bed does not have the same formality as sitting at a desk. Since it doesn't really feel like work, taking a Facebook break every now and then feels totally normal. Until Facebook leads you down a Google hole and before you know it, several hours have passed and you have accomplished less than half of the tasks on your to-do list. So what are your options? 

When I lived in New York, my favorite study places were the Stephen A. Schwarzman building at Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street or the Science, Industry, and Business Library (SIBL) at Madison Ave and 34th Street. The former was the library with the famous lions and history filled the building. The latter was much more modern, but both places felt like great halls of knowledge. To me, they were like places of worship, and I immediately felt calm and serene when I walked through their doors. 

Reading Room at the Stephen A. Schwarzman building. Photo:bronxbanterblog.com

Lobby and lower level of SIBL. Photo: alspectorarchitecture.com

In Copenhagen, the Black Diamond became my place of respite. Again, the reading room in the old part of the library felt like old knowledge and I could imagine the students before me, huddled over their texts, furiously writing essays. The Black Diamond had an added bonus of a cafe in the atrium which served the best hot chocolate I have ever had the pleasure to enjoy. And if you were lucky, you could snag a free glass of wine during performances at the theater on the ground floor. 

But now I am in Germany and it has taken some time to find the right place that can be used as my surrogate office. My first thought was to find a nice library. But that proved more complicated than I originally thought. Most libraries in Munich have closed networks which require a student ID to access. Since I am no longer in school, this was not possible. But a thread on Toytown Germany said that you can get around this by signing up for a library card. I followed their advice and can confirm its accuracy. The only caveats are you need to have a valid residence permit and passport. Also, it does not give you access to all of the libraries and so far, the only one that I have been successful with is the Bavarian State Library (also known as Stabi) on Ludwigstrasse, which is also where I got my library card. I only tried it at two libraries, so your experience may be different. 

Another thing you should be aware of if you decide to come to Stabi is the place has one main reading room which gets packed. I came once on a Saturday afternoon and there were no seats available, at all. It was so crowded that students actually took to sitting and working on the stairs. My second attempt was successful, but at 10:30 on a Friday, there were only a few chairs to choose from. So come early or stay at home. 

The alternative to libraries would be a coffee shop. But, unlike many cities, WiFi is not a given and I have found far too many coffee shops without internet. Even more disturbing is the Coffee Fellows near Hauptbahnhof which actually charges for internet! If I can correctly recall the prices, I believe it was 10 euros for two hours and 20 euros for 4. WTF? Granted, if you buy food, the price of your items will be applied to the fee and I think it also granted you access to the multi-function machine. But still, 10 euros?

Luckily, I live in a cool part of town and discovered the place that has satisfied my needs, Trachtenvogl. The atmosphere is cool, the seating comfy, and the staff laid back. I can order a coffee for less than three euro, and stay there as long as I want, without any hassle or dirty looks from the waitstaff. And their music selection is on point, ranging from folk, rock, funk, and chill hip-hop. 

Look at all the Macs!

Trachtenvogl can also get crowded later in the evening and on the weekend. But many of the tables are large enough to share and can accommodate a big group or several small ones. 

If you're in the Munich area and have discovered the perfect work location, I'd love to hear about it. I'm always on the lookout for new spots and I'm pretty sure the people at Trachtenvogl will soon tire of me. At least I hope not. 

Friends in Unexpected Places

Making friends in a new country is hard. If your move abroad was to continue your education, then you're one of the lucky ones since campus life can act as a buffer against total isolation. Even if you fail to make deep connections, you still have the opportunity to interact with other individuals. 

But when you make the move to a foreign country in a non-academic setting, things are completely different. Even with roommates, it's possible to go days without talking to anyone. And If you're a social person like me, this is especially frustrating. So getting out the house on a regular basis is key. 

Until you find friends to entertain you, you'll have to find ways to entertain yourself. Coffee shops are good, but can become repetitive. My solution was the film noir series at the Münchner Stadtmuseum. For only €4, you can experience the beauty of 50's cinema, like a young Marlon Brando in a Streetcar Named Desire. And with an adjacent cafe offering light plates and a lovely Pino Noir, you can turn the experience into a personal date night.  But be quick since the series ends February 15th.

Photo: homo-centric.com

Eventually, even the gangsters and detectives lost their luster. I longed for human interaction and intelligent conversation. And this is when I turned to the expat board,Toytown Germany

Normally, I shy away from expat groups. I'm clumsy and awkward and meeting large groups of new people makes me go into my own head and overanalyze everything around me. But my friend suggested Toytown since she had good experience meeting cool people there. So when I saw they were having a Christmas party that was pretty close to my home, I pushed myself out of my comfort zone and went. 

Good lord, the party was everything that I had feared. It was just as uncomfortable as a high school dance when you're the new kid in town. But at least there was booze to help mask my discomfort. And I did meet a really nice couple. But they told me they were leaving the country for good next month and this was probably their last event. Dang.

Not to be discouraged, I decided to give Toytown another chance and found a writing group that sounded pretty interesting. 

Fellow writers pouring out our creative souls

This time, I fit right in. The group is small, so conversations between the members is easy. And sharing your writing is such an intimate act that after a few meetings and a few beers, you start to feel connected to each other. Absences are noticed and constructive criticism is given from a place of love and respect. 

Also, by meeting in smaller groups, you're able to discuss the expat experience in a more personal manner. One of the members, Pam, has lived in almost as many cities as years I've been alive. She reminds me of a more subdued version of Auntie Mame with her tales of foreign suiters and beautiful vintage jewelry. The information and advice that she and the others have offered has helped to make the transition to Germany a little easier. I feel a little less alone.

Another strategy that has been helpful to my friend in Berlin was joining a church. But I like to drink and swear and most church members would interpret that as heathen behavior, so I can't really recommend that route. However, I will not discourage anyone from using Jesus for companionship. If you're in Munich, there are several churches with services in English. I've checked out the Munich International Community Church and can say that it's not too bad. The service starts at 3:30pm and they have free cake afterwards, so you get to sleep late and get rewarded with sweets for being good. 

I guess the trick to meeting new people is to be willing to try new experiences, which is probably the reason why you moved to a new country in the first place. And remember, that even in your loneliest hour, there are people out there who feel exactly how you feel. You just have to have the courage to find them.

Tis better to give than to recieve

When I was about 6, my favorite outfit was a pair of yellow corduroy stirrups and a pink and yellow striped sweater. I would have worn it everyday if my mother let me and even when it was obvious that I had outgrown the pants (they rose way past my ankles and I used two pairs of slouched socks to cover my exposed legs) I would not give them up. Fed up with her daughter wearing highwaters, my mother informed me that my beloved pants would be going to the daughter of a good family friend. 

And I threw such a fit. How could she, didn't she know that those garments were a part of me? That they and I were one? Once I calmed down enough to listen to reason, she said that the clothes were only meant to be with me temporarily and it was now time for me to say good-bye. As the head of a Christian household, she asked "how can you expect to receive blessings when your hands are closed and unwilling to bless others?" Ouch. So it was with a very heavy and reluctant heart that I said good-bye to my fabric friends and gave them to a girl that I knew wouldn't love them as much as I did. Little bitch.

Now that I have a few more years under my belt, it has become much easier to say good-bye to things in closet. My mother's words still ring in my ears and I am more than happy to pass on the blessings that I have received. I often set aside items that I think will look good on my friends and surprise them with gifts when they visit. Interestingly enough, my wardrobe improves whenever I get rid of things and pass them on. I guess the act of reduction allows the remaining items to stand out more. There have been countless times where I totally forgot about an item until I cleaned out my closet/ suitcase/ drawer and it magically appeared. 

Additionally, I have been the fortunate recipient of my friends' purges. Much of my current wardrobe comes from my best friend whom I love dearly. She always has a garbage bag full of clothes at her house, waiting to be donated to the local charity. When she picked me up from the airport during a trip home and informed me that such a bag was in the trunk of her car, I literally stripped in the middle of the street and gleefully ravaged it. 

Above is just a few of the items I've been really fortunate to get from my friends. Unbeknownst to my girls, their items came when I needed them most and could hardly afford food much less new gloves or warm sweaters. And being on the receiving end of such love pushes me to be even more generous. I've given away leather jackets, boots, designers shoes, and even electronics, all in the name of paying it forward. 

So if you're looking to purge your closets and help out a few strangers, there are a number of options. The most obvious one is a charity shop. I however, use them as a last resort as I would like my clothes to be free to those who need them most. Instead, when I am in Copenhagen, I use the clothing drop in Christiania. Located a few steps away from Moonfisher, people can take and leave whatever they like. Another option is Facebook. There are numerous groups dedicated to facilitating free exchanges between people living in the same area. This one is for Copenhagen while this one is for people living in Munich. To find similar ones in your area, just do a search for "free your stuff" plus your city. Craigslist is always an option, but if the items you're looking to unload are from your home country and hard to find in you present location, I suggest an expat board like Toy Town Germany.  

Remember, the goal is the help others out while also unburdening yourself of unnecessary items. So be nice and refrain from donating garbage. If the pants, shirt, or coat is beyond repair, throw it away. Follow the golden rule of donation; give onto others as you would like others to give onto you. 

See you later, Copenhagen

Photo: iboriogangi.tripod.com

First, I would like to apologize for my sudden and abrupt departure. This blog was birthed from boredom and unemployment. I needed something to keep my mind sharp and skills current while I prayed for a paying job. And then it came and I pushed this project aside like an old, formerly loved toy. Also, I figured that my new experiences as a newly employed, now financially secure person would have little resemblance to the struggling lifestyle I wrote about. Oh, how wrong I was.

Funny how a steady paycheck fails to eliminate some the problems I once faced. So now I'm back and ready to continue on the journey I started several months ago.

Second, I am no longer in Denmark. Like so many sad immigrants before me, I was forced to leave. I actually received a letter from the immigration office about a month before my residence permit expired which read (and I'm paraphrasing), "Your residence permit will expire on July 31st. Please be sure to leave the country before or on that date or you will face fines and will not be permitted to enter the country again for three or five years. Cheers!"

Of course I was stressed since I did not have 77,000 kroner nor a job offer that would pay the 31,250 kroner per month needed to turn my residence permit into a green card.  

So I looked elsewhere and was fortunate enough to land a job in nearby Germany. I made the leap in June and have been traveling around Europe for work for the past four months. 

Saying good-bye, or even see you later to Copenhagen was hard because I actually liked living in Copenhagen. Unlike many before me, I befriended native Danes. And I mean, they were/ are really my friends; we go out and have dinner together and they don't talk in Danish. I took the train to Germany and as my boyfriend started to count down the minutes before my train arrived, tears started pouring down my chubby cheeks. Leaving him and the life I had created there was like ripping out my heart. I still get a little sad when I think about it.

O well. Shit happens. I am currently in Munich, amassing new stories and having new adventures. So if you will allow me, I'll take you with me to this new and foreign land. There's so much to discover and hopefully you'll be there as I feel my way around. Stay tuned.